‘On the couch’ with Jasminda

DEAR Jasminda

I am thinking of taking up surfing in retirement but I’ve noticed that all surfers, when carrying their board, seem to break into a quick jog.

After two knee replacements I’m not sure if I can do this.

Why do surfers run when carrying their board?

Dave A.

Dear Dave,

I admire you taking up a new sport in retirement.

What did you do before retirement to cause two knee replacements?

Triathlons? Tiling?

Commercial fishing in rough seas?

Landscape gardening?

Regardless, you don’t want to do more harm than good now.

There are a few hazards with surfing ranging from sharks to out-of-control kids on body boards to stomach pains from sucking in your gut to look better in your boardshorts. Surfing can be hard work even when you don’t catch a wave.

Now, to your running-with-surfboard question.

I’ve done a bit of preliminary research and these are my findings:
● Summer sand is scalding and surfers are just trying to get to the water before the skin on their heels peels off.
● The anticipation of catching a wave is so exhilarating that surfers can’t help but sprint down to the water’s edge.
● Running makes the board feel lighter – a psychosomatic response.
● A quick warm up before diving in the ocean is a sensible way to ease into the stamina and endurance necessary to surf.
● Running is gnarly, dude, you’ve gotta run when you’re feeling amped so you can get onto those rad barrels.

I don’t know if that is accurate.

My surfing lingo is mainly gleaned from Finding Nemo, but I thought I’d throw it in there.

If any readers, who are also surfers, can give Dave A. with his two knee replacements some more informed reasons for the surfboard-jog, please write in.

Carpe diem,
Jasminda.

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